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Router Table
Our router table features independently adjustable sliding fences and a push bar that glides along a groove in the tabletop. By mounting your router to an acrylic base plate recessed into the table, you can lift the router up and out conveniently to change bits and make adjustments.
Instructions:
General:Cut all parts as you assemble the project, using the Cut List as a guide and adjusting as needed for fit. Use glue and the appropriate length nails to attach all parts unless otherwise specified.
Step 1:Build the fences. See Figure 1.
a.Drill a 5⁄16-inch hole 11⁄4inches in from each end of the slide bottom; center the holes lengthwise as shown.
b.Attach two slide sides to the slide bottom per Figure 1.
c.Drill a 5⁄16-inch hole 2 inches in from each end of the slide face.
d.Center and attach a slide face from side to side on the slide assembly.
e. Insert a bar knob and elevator bolt into the two holes in the slide face.
f. Attach the face, face spacers, and face backs per Figure 1. This assembly attaches to the slide face with the elevator bolt.
g. Repeat Step 1 to create a second fence.
Step 2:Build the push bar. Note: The push bar is similar to the miter gauge on a table saw. It's built just like the sliding fences in Step 1, except that the face is replaced with a sacrificial board, and it has a guide that fits in a groove in the tabletop. Figure 2.
a.To make the base of the push bar, repeat Steps 1b and 1d for the bar sides, bottom, and face.
b.Using glue and screws, attach the guide to the bottom of the push bar assembly so that it is centered and perpendicular to the face. Rounding the corners slightly will help the guide slide smoothly in the tabletop. c.Attach the sacrificial board to the bar face using screws; with use, it will get chewed up and need to be rotated and/or replaced.
Step 3: Build the top assembly. Note: Before you begin assembling the top, you'll want to measure your router to verify that it will fit through a 7-inch-square hole; if it will not, modify the hole dimensions as needed. Figure 3.
a.Locate and draw centerlines on the sub-top. Lay out a 7-inch square that's centered on the centerlines.
b. Drill an access hole within the square for a jigsaw, and then cut out the 7-inch square on the sub-top.
c.On the mid-top, measure and mark a line 12 inches in from the long back edge per the layout detail. Measure and mark a line 9 inches in from each short edge as shown. These are the centerlines of the material that you'll remove to form the slots.
d.Drill a 11⁄4-inch hole at the intersections of the 9- and 12-inch centerlines on the mid-top. e.Use a framing square to locate the apex on either side of the 11⁄4-inch holes. Mark a line that extends from the apex to the back edge of the mid-top.
f. Cut along these lines, and then remove the material to create the slots.
g.Locate the center of the 12-inch line on 1the mid-top, and draw a line perpendicular to it. Then lay out a 7-inch square centered on the intersection of these lines.
h.Drill an access hole for a jigsaw within the square, and then cut out the 7-inch square.
i.Attach the mid-top to the sub-top so that the edges are flush.
j.Attach the front edging to the top of the sub-/mid-top assembly so that the front edges are flush.
k. Lay out the top as shown in the layout detail in Figure 3 (as in Step 3c).
l.Repeat Step 3g on the top. m.Drill a 5⁄16-inch hole at the intersections of the 9- and 12-inch.
n.Repeat Steps 3e and 3f to locate and cut slots in the top for the elevator bolts.
o.Repeat Step 3h for the top. p. Attach the top to the sub-/mid-top assembly so that the sides and back edges are flush; this creates a 3⁄4-inch groove in the top assembly for the push bar.
Step 4:Add the acrylic base plate. Note: To make it easy to change bits, you'll replace the base plate on your router with a 9-inch-square acrylic base plate that fits into the recess in the top assembly. This allows you to push the router and base plate up from underneath to set the router on the router table for bit changing. The most accurate way to rout this recess is to use a template.
a.To make the template, first measure the distance from the cutting edge of a 1⁄4-inch straight bit to the outside edge of the router base plate to determine its offset.
b.Then cut a plywood square to measure 9 inches plus twice the router base offset plus 6 inches.
c. Locate and draw centerlines on the template. Then lay out a square measuring 9 inches plus twice the offset, centered on these centerlines.
d.Drill an access hole for a jigsaw within the square, and cut it out.
e.To rout the recess in the top, set a 1⁄4-inch straight bit fitted in your router for a 1⁄4-inch-deep cut. Then center the template over the 7-inch-square hole cut in the top assembly, and temporarily attach with screws. Now rout out the material along the inner edges of the template to create a 1⁄4-inch-deep recess around the 7-inch hole. Use a chisel to square up the corners of the routed area.
f.For a general-purpose base plate, use a drill/driver with a 11⁄2-inch hole saw attachment to cut a hole in the center of the acrylic plate. Consider making several base plates with center holes cut in a variety of sizes for different bits.
g.Remove the base plate from your router, and center it on the hole in the acrylic base plate. Use a laundry marker to mark the mounting hole locations of your base plate on the acrylic plate. Then drill the appropriate size screw holes at these locations, countersinking these holes so that the mounting screws will sit flush with the surface of the acrylic.
h. Attach the acrylic base plate to your router with the mounting screws, and test how the plate fits in the recess; trim as needed with a chisel.
Step 5:Build the stand; Figure 4.
a.Using a pocket hole jig, drill two holes for pocket hole screws in each end of all skirt pieces and all stretchers.
b.Position a side skirt flush with the tops of a pair of legs, and then assemble with glue and pocket hole screws. Position a side stretcher so that its bottom edge sits 4 inches up from the base of the legs; attach to the legs with glue and pocket hole screws. Repeat for the other side assembly.
c.Position a skirt between the two side assemblies with top edges flush, and attach with glue and pocket hole screws. Place a stretcher between the two side assemblies so that the bottom edge of the stretcher sits 4 bar sidesinches above the base of the legs; attach with glue and pocket hole screws. Repeat for the remaining skirt and stretcher.
d. Cut 11⁄2-inch-square notches on each corner of the shelf. Attach the shelf to the tops of the stretchers.
e.To create a nailing surface for the sides and back, attach stile nailers flush with the face of the legs; attach the bottom nailers and back bottom nailer to the top of the shelf, flush with the stile nailers.
f.Secure the sides and back to the nailers and skirts using glue and brads.
g. Install the fillers between the legs at the top of each side assembly so that the top edges of the fillers are flush with the top edges of the side skirts.
h.To create an attachment surface for the top, cut triangular corner blocks from a 1 x 4 poplar board, and attach them in the upper corners of the stand.
Step 6:Final assembly.
a.Center the top assembly on the stand, and secure it by driving screws up through the corner blocks.
b.Fill all nail holes, sand; finish as desired. c.Position the push bar in its groove.
d. Insert an elevator bolt and bar knob into each of the four holes in the bases of the fence assemblies; slide the bolts into their slots. When using the router table, align the faces of the two fences using a straightedge.
About the Author
I use a Honeywell Thermostat Manual. For storing furniture. At home I have a model honeywell chronotherm. I am very pleased.
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